PATAGONIA ADVENTURE DIARIES #2 - FROM PUERTO TRANQUILO TO LAGO POSADAS

Published by Agustin Yaconis at September 30, 2017 in Articles

Teaser lg

Our little adventure continues on the Carretera Austral, on the interesting section between Puerto Tranquilo and Lago Posadas (Posadas Lake), crossing the border to Argentina.
But before we go on and decide where to spend the night, it is very important to discuss the character of this section.

The next 40 miles (60 km) will go by slow, the southern shore of the Lago General Carrera (General Carrera Lake) offering magnificent views and road conditions that are tricky, with hairpin turns and reverse curves all the way, continuous ascents and descents. But because the views are so exceptional and it’s simply impossible not to stop and admire them, I travel to this place for many years now, but every trip feels like the first.

Glaciar leones

Over the next approximately 20 miles (30 km), the route reaches the Valle Leones (Lions’ Valley). Getting to the end of the valley, you can arrange in advance to take a tour with local guides on the Lago Leones (Lions’ Lake) and experience the thousand-year-old ice structures above you of the glacier of the same name – the best thing, it’s almost not affected by tourism.

The Glaciar Leones (Lions’ Glacier) is one of the few accesses to the Campo de Hielo Norte. The trip to reach it, is a whole day affair. Riding through the native forest is a unique experience itself, after floating on a small boat to the frontal wall of the glacier – it is really impressing from any point of view – with no other people or boats in sight, except those of your own expedition. A scenery that you will never forget.

Arco de piedra

We resume our journey to head to the bridge of the “drainage”, the outlet of the General Carrera Lake that serves to feed Lago Bertrand (Lake Bertrand). Be assured, at this time, you’d want to stop every moment, to admire the view looking north towards the lake with two mountain ranges parallel on each side. Incredible!

The next section of our route which will leave you stunned, is the first stretch of the Río Baker (Baker River). Once we reach the hamlet of Puerto Bertrand, we pass through it and get to the adjoining river with its turquoise colour never seen before. It is Chile’s largest river in terms of volume of water. The scenic route is literally overwhelming and I recommend stopping there to take a five-minute walk to see the “Salto del Baker”, a beautiful waterfall, where you can physically feel the force of water. It’s an iconic site as well, where the villagers formed protest against big companies wanting to erect hydro-electric dams along the river.

At this point, we leave the evergreen forest to slowly approach the area of the Valle Chacabuco (Chacabuco Valley), a private national park only with native wildlife: guanacos (a small type of Llama), hares, birds, and if you’re really lucky, even cougars. The gravel roads are a little hard there and traversing the enormous valley that thousands of years before has been the bottom of the glacier, is a striking experience for me. Leaving the valley, we reach Argentina riding through Paso Roballos (Roballos Pass) – very few people cross the border there. The surroundings create a distinct feeling of spaciousness, the Patagonian Desert appearing in front of our eyes and the sense of vastness compels us to travel further. After a couple of hours, we reach a small village with the distinctive feature of two names: on some maps, it is called Hipolito Irigoyen and on others Lago Posadas. It’s the best place in the area to find a spot to sleep and to fill up the tank. If weather conditions allow, it’s possible to see the “Arco de Piedra” at a few miles distance and the isthmus which divides the Lago Pueyrredón (Pueyrredón Lake) and the Lago Posadas (Lake Posadas). It is by far the greatest spot for viewing a sunrise or a sunset – the lakes, the Andean mountain range and the Monte San Lorenzo (San Lorenzo Mountain, the highest mountain of Patagonia), lying before you.

In the end, as always around this area, it is difficult to analyse everything seen in just a few miles distance. The main thing to remember is probably the side trip to the Glaciar Leones – you should consider spending an additional overnight stay there, ideally at Puerto Bertrand. You’ll find a variety of different accommodation types available, from simple “cabañas” (cabins) to exclusive lodges offering fly-fishing.

Historically, there’s a lot to know about the short route section described. There’s a lively history as the first settlers arrived not longer than 100 years ago, and violent conflicts with big landowners over the land went hand in hand. The massacres of the indigenous people occurred a few years before the first colonists arrived (they are not the ones responsible for the killings). You’ll benefit a lot from the interest and involvement with “non-official” history, prior to travelling to this part of the country.

If you are in the area and need a motorcycle, take a look here, that’s Agustin’s moto rental company: http://www.motorentadventure.com/

PHOTOS


Arco de piedra small Glaciar leones small Paso roballos small Satelital small Teaser lg small
All photos copyright Agustin Yaconis

LINKS


Moto Rent Adventure
RISER - Driven by Adventure

LATEST ARTICLES

Teaser

THE WEISSBORN STORY EPISODE 4: BY MOTORCYCLE THROUGH PAKISTAN

Published by RISER at October 20, 2017 in Articles
To the left, to the right, in front of and behind me, a pure desert landscape. The wind scatters sand over the street and the last road sign appears to my right, indicating the crossing point between the town of Mirjaveh and a road about 5 km (3 miles) long lying straight ahead and leading to the border of Pakistan.
Teaser

13.000 KILOMETRES ON A PUCH - MAX REISCH'S JOURNEY TO INDIA

Published by RISER at October 13, 2017 in Articles
In his monthly travelogue Johannes Weissborn tells in an impressive way what true adventures a motorcycle trip to distant countries entails. Especially when you find yourself in regions of the world that are not characterised by familiar structures, you will come across new and unexpected challenges. Just under 85 years ago, two students from Vienna also set off...
Teaser

BEHIND THE SCENES: HANDING OUT FLYERS IN BAKING HEAT – DOMINIK

Published by RISER at October 12, 2017 in Articles
It was two of us, three months had passed since the launch of the iOS version of RISER and it was hot as hell. Overloaded with flyers, we were standing in the middle of a dense crowd at the European Bike Week at Lake Faak … and working up a sweat...
Teaser2

NUVIZ, THE FIRST HEAD-UP-DISPLAY FOR MOTORCYCLE HELMETS - A REVIEW

Published by Christian Zechner at October 09, 2017 in Articles
Originally used in the aviation sector, cars are also regularly equipped with it for quite some time, but there has never been anything similar for everyday use for motorcyclists. We’re talking about head-up displays, aka HUDs.
Teaser

COFFEE BREAK AT FULL SPEED

Published by NORA DEJACO at September 30, 2017 in Articles
While on the road riding our motorcycles, always the same question comes up: Where to find the best cup of coffee? Maybe we’ve had the most brilliant idea recently. We should just take the coffee machine with us. It has a removable tank, runs on electricity and uses capsules...
Teaser

BEHIND THE SCENES - STEFAN, THE ANDROID DUDE

Published by RISER at September 30, 2017 in Articles
Since last year’s launch, there have been some changes to our core team. Stefan is someone who was already with us before the launch and we couldn’t be happier he is on board. Stefan is basically a quiet-type person, at least he seems so if you meet him for the first time.
Teaser

THE WEISSBORN STORY - EPISODE 2

Published by NORA DEJACO at September 29, 2017 in Articles
The desert – I’ve never been this far from home on my motorcycle and reached such a barren landscape. The atmosphere is fairly chaotic at the border control. Hagglers keep offering their services and border officials are irritated about the new registration plate, as the previous plate is still listed on their register.
Teaser

MOTORCYCLE DIY #2 WITH NCT-MOTORCYCLES

Published by RISER at September 26, 2017 in Articles
Remember that we had our friend David Widmann from Carinthia talking about some nice insights how to get your bike fit for the season in July? Well he’s back now with some interesting details: Have you ever tried to change your motorcycle’s handles?
Teaser

THE DISTINGUISHED GENTLEMAN'S RIDE - VINTAGE MOTORCYCLING FOR A GOOD CAUSE

Published by CHRISTIAN ZECHNER at September 22, 2017 in Articles
Taking a ride on your bike is always a great thing, but what could be better than doing it for a good cause. This Sunday, September 24th, motorcyclists across the world will suit up...